THE ENAMEL


SPECIAL FEELING OF DEPTH

In fine watchmaking, precision and efficiency in mechanics must be matched by a timepiece’s appearance and the most prominent feature of any watch is the dial, the very real face of time. That is why Czapek & Cie decided to tap into the ancient art of enameling. The Grand-feu technique, which bakes the enamel at over 800°C, ingrains brilliance and exuberance to a dial. Moreover, enamel is durable, and it renders colour with a special feeling of depth. White enamel gives natural lightness and clarity to the Quai des Bergues dials. On the other hand, black enamel, found in the Quai des Bergues Black Enamel S, has a mysterious ocean-deep appearance. Black enamel is even harder to craft than white, as the normally vaulted dial plate must be flattened to ensure the even spread of the black enamel application.

GRAND FEU

The Czapek “Grand Feu” enamel dial is one of the most difficult techniques of the art of watch decorating but offers maximum durability. The master artisan of our manufacturing partner Donze Cadrans in Le Locle, does not paint the motif directly on the watch but applies more oxides on the dial in gold. Then, the enameler moves the dial into a fire (800-900° C) several times to allow motif and colors appear gradually. The “Grand Feu” enamel sets unalterable and refined decoration… including a secret signature in the case of Czapek. Czapek’s hand-written signature reveals itself when a ray of light hits the enamel at a specific angle. The inscription is a faithful reproduction of François Czapek’s signature, as written in the Czapek & Cie company registration available in Geneva’s State Archives.

FLINQUÉ


Czapek also developed an original approach to the “flinqué” technique, combining guilloché with enamel. First, the engine-turned Ricochet design is recreated on a stamping tool which is then applied to a silver plate. Coloured enamel with intense blue and green hues, perfected over time, is then added, creating an extraordinary and iridescent effect.

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